EIGENGRAU J05 Black Horse Shoulder Raglan

Material: Vegetable-tanned horse shoulder leather, tencel lining
Specification:

Where the J03 is built on a set-in sleeve and a hard shoulder line, the J05 is the raglan answer: the sleeve seam runs diagonally from the underarm to the neck, so there is no shoulder point at all and the whole upper body moves as one piece. It is the more forgiving of the two patterns across different builds, and the reason the J05 reads quieter on the body despite being the same weight of leather.

The neckline is the detail that carries this jacket. Rather than a collar applied at the end, it's swept up out of the body panels themselves — one continuous line from the chest to the throat, with no seam breaking it.

Cut from vegetable-tanned horse shoulder: fine irregular grain, softer and thinner than culatta, and a black that will deepen rather than fade with wear. Pockets are set into the seams so nothing interrupts the front. Fully lined in tencel, which sits cool and smooth against a shirt and stops the leather dragging when you put it on.

Cut slim — no roomier than the J03 through the chest, and marginally closer at the waist and elbow — so we'd suggest taking a size up here too; your usual size fits, but wears close. What the raglan does give you is tolerance: with no shoulder seam there is no fixed shoulder width to fit into, so it accommodates a broader or narrower frame than a set-in sleeve will. Note that front and back lengths in the size guide include the collar, and sleeve length is measured from the end of the shoulder, as raglan construction requires.

Model is 185 cm (72.8") tall.

Every EIGENGRAU jacket is individually handcrafted in a London atelier by a single designer. No production runs, no mass manufacturing — just one-off pieces, hand-cut, hand-constructed and hand-finished, so each jacket carries its own distinct character.